http://online.wsj.com/article/SB100014240529702045424045…

Via Blue in Green

It’s a mistake to think all of Japan holds these values, but it seems to be a much higher percentage than other countries.

Here they are side by side for an interesting comparison.  Both belts were originally the same colour.

Both belts are 36 inches, but it’s interesting that the old belt has stretched over time to be a couple of inches longer.

You can see the marks from the buckle on the tongue as I migrated up the holes over time.

The hardware hasn’t really changed.  You can see some water damage from rain and a few beers that I lost control of.

On the back of the belt you can see a fair bit of indigo, and some marks on the tongue from where it rubs on the rivets.

These Sugar Cane belts are good quality and relatively good value.

Buying Tip

Make sure you get your size correct.  If the tongue is too long or too short it could be awkward and won’t look right.  Also note that the belt stretched about two inches over the years, so you really need a couple of belt holes available to size it down when required.  I wear around size 33 jeans, so the size 36 works for me.

Original Belt

http://indigofan.com/2008/01/sugarcane-raw-leather-garrison-belt/

Jacket Art via BoingBoing

Two of the world’s biggest players, Gap and Levis, have suffered runs of poor sales. According to the analysts Koncept Analytics, the market’s double-digit growth is gradually – perhaps inevitably – declining as sales channels reach saturation point in a general absence of innovation.

…

“When we launched 10 years ago there was nothing new happening in the market, just the big brands. Now we face the opposite situation,” says Palle Stenberg, co-owner of Nudie.  The company has recently made a foray into khakis – in part to offset the dip in interest in denim.  ”It feels like there’s no passion in the industry at all – just different brands trying to do the same thing over and over,” he says. “The market is saturated, in part because the internet has provided access to such huge choice. It won’t kill interest in jeans – but it will mean brands will come and go much faster.”

David added some interesting links in the comments:

Thanks for sharing this article it’s real interesting… reminds me of this one from 2009 http://www.synovate.com/changeagent/index.php/site/full_story/boot_cut_beats_black_tie

Oh you might be interested in this as well: http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/Die-for-Lucy-Siegle/9780007264094
Her writing style might drive you crazy but she pulls together some interesting chapters.

Source: Esse Magazine

Kids these days need a bit of guidance. I’m a bit reluctant to do something like this, but here’s the Indigofan Top Ten Jeans. Actually it’s not a Top Ten list. It’s just a response to the GQ trash. Prices are approx. I’ve tried to focus on slim fits that are available online.

Slimmer cuts from the Japanese Kings…

1. Samurai S710XX19oz USD$325
www.samurai-jeans.co.jp
blueingreensoho.com
Heavyweight denim, Mid Rise, Slim Tapered Leg.

2. Flathead SE05BSP USD$345
www.selfedge.com
Slim Tapered. Selfedge have a number of Flathead options, all of which look good.

3. Pure Blue Japan XX-013 USD$268
blueingreensoho.com
Mid Rise, Slim Tapered Leg

4. Eternal 883 USD$275
blueingreensoho.com
Slim, low-rise

5. Sugar Cane SC2009 USD$299
www.selfedge.com
Straight slim fit

Cheaper Options for students…

1. Artist Denim USD$170
artistdenim.com
Slim-cut options, and denim options which include sugarcane fabric

2. Burgus Plus Lot.770 $150
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/770-1201/
Straight fit. You may need to use a Japan proxy buying service to get these.

3. 3sixteen ST-100x $195
www.selfedge.com
Slim Leg Indigo Selvedge

4. Sugar Cane 1947 Type II USD$150
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/sc42009-a/
Straight cut

Old men and aficionados… not slim…

1. OOe-Yofukuten
http://www.ooe-yofukuten.com/bottoms.html

2. Rising Sun
http://risingsunjeans.com/category/product/

3. Pike Brothers
http://www.pikebrothersshop.com/

Further reading…

There are a bunch of other brands that could be in this list, such as:
Evisu, Imperial, Studio D’Artisan, Roy, Rogue Territory, Strike Gold, Warehouse, Kapital etc.
A pair of jeans will last you a long time. Do some of your own research, and get something special.

” Traveling Denim ” Recording color fade for two years from Takayuki Akachi on Vimeo.

This is a documentary film that a girl wearing denim traveled over 50 countries in two years.
The denim walks freely in the world, meets people, changes and fades.

Takayuki Akachi Film Exhibition Tokyo
“The Time of World”
12/18 – 12/27 at minamiAOYAMA PLSMIS >> http://takayukiakachi.jp/tow

film by Takayuki Akachi >> http://takayukiakachi.jp
music by PEPE CALIFORNIA >> http://www.myspace.com/pepecalifornia

Via http://teddybearlumberjack.tumblr.com/
Via http://www.rawrdenim.com/

It was interesting to see the remaining custom shoe last factory in Australia. As you’d expect, the market for lasts in Australia has been declining. Their main customers now are R.M.Williams, J.Robins, and custom medical/ortho. Almost all the new lasts are high-density plastic, so the wooden feet are rare.

Bruce was kind enough to take me around the factory and give me some advice on what to do, and he suggested that if you can make shoes well, he see there is a gap in the market for custom medical/orthopedic footwear.

I got off-the-shelf lasts for my whole family. I just need to drum up the time, tools, and courage to start trying to make some shoes.